Leaving Venice and Italy behind us, we set off taking the torrential rain with us towards Slovenia. We had decided that we were going to head to Portoroz first which is on the coast, just 8km from the Croatian border as it looked like an interesting point to start our journey through Slovenia.
A little bit last minute, but Keith had remembered that Slovenia has toll roads but no toll booths – meaning that you have to buy a box/tag system and pre-load it with credit before you can drive on most of the main roads running through the country. Therefore entering the country on a toll road is always a bit of a risk not knowing how, or where you can buy the ‘box’ as the fines are quite substantial.
We opted to take the risk, setting up an account online literally 10 minutes before we were crossing the border, and thankfully on the route we had taken from Italy – which did turn directly into a toll road in Slovenia – there was a fuel station on the border selling the ‘DarsGo’ box which is what we needed for a 7.2 tonne motorhome. The chap I spoke to was incredibly helpful, set up the system for us attaching the box to my account and we were off… phew!
Portoroz became popular in the late 19th century for the Austro/Hungarian Monarchy based on its ‘health’ benefits from the concentrated salt water and salina mud and although I am sure it is incredibly busy during peak season, it was actually beautifully tranquil whilst we were there.
We had chosen to stay at Portoroz Marina (45 euro per night) which is nestled right in the centre of the bay, giving us beautiful views out of our front window to watch the yachts as they came and went. We were parked with our nose almost on the beach, which as the tide started to rise later in the day caused a few concerns – thankfully though the high tide stopped roughly 1.5m from the front of the motorhome, and as we are in the bay the water was calm and glistening, just perfect!
The area is set up for cyclists, runners and walkers with several circular routes going up the coast, down the coast and inland… enough to keep us busy for a few days and providing me with a wonderful morning running route.
The walk south took us along the coast into a Marine park and then up into the hills – they were only small, rolling hills – taking in a sculpture park Vineyards, Olive Groves and providing beautiful views out over Croatia and of course the salt fields. Salt that we ended up buying from the salt farmer himself just as he had packed all of his goods away the following day in Piran.
The walk North took us through Portoroz and on into Piran, a pretty fishing village with a castle. Keen to try out some local food, we headed towards a seafood place for lunch that looked interesting – Fritolin Pri Cantini – but as it is effectively a serving hatch where you order your food, they suggest turning up early as it is a small place and you need to find a table. It is a good set up as it shares the tables with the bar next door who provide table service for drinks and also the all important toilets… a perfect match.
We arrived at about 12:45, got a shaded table on the terrace and ordered a grilled seafood platter (albeit with a bit of deep fried calamari) accompanied by a green salad. It was light, fresh and delicious. We would definately go back if we happened to be passing through.
Wanting to enjoy the coast for just a little bit longer as the weather was being kind to us, we headed 20km round the coast back up towards Italy, arriving at Ankaran (Ankaran Hotel and Resort 53.66 euros p/n inc.)
Slovenia only has 46.4km of coastline and unfortunately nestled between Piran and Ankaran is Koper, Slovenias only Port and although I am sure that it is a very pretty town, it meant that the views out to sea from Ankaran were mostly of container ships…. they made for a beautiful shadow on the sun set though!
Ankaran is 4km from the Italian border making my morning run a little different – round the peninsula, up over the hills and a quick dip into Italy and back again. I did have a bit of a panic on the first day when I passed the border control police, wondering what would happen if they stopped me on my way back and wouldn’t let me back into Slovenia…. it was all ok though. Apparently Sundays are their day off should you ever want to smuggle something in, or out of the country… weird eh?
Exploring the area, we walked up into the hills, through the Vineyards and Olive Groves and then around the peninsula which gave us slightly more than we had bargained for. The views over to Italy and Trieste – also a port – were expected, however the route Keith had planned took us down onto the beach where we had to negotiate high tide, doing a bit of paddling whilst also trying to step round the naturists without imposing on their space….nothing like an all over tan!
The following day, after catching up on our washing and a little walk around the Memorial Salt Park in the morning, we set off on a little bike ride. Once again heading up into the hills – even higher this time which was a good test for the bikes – taking in more Olive Groves and Vineyards before coming back down to the coast into Muggia in Italy where we parked up the bikes and had a little walk round. The historic center was pretty small and not a huge amount to write home about, but we were distracted by the gelatrias and felt the need to stop and taste – well it would have been wrong to pop back into Italy on a sunny day and not have gelato wouldn’t it?
The following day, it was time to move on again, away from the coast and heading towards the mountains this time, stopping over in Postojna to see the caves. As a general rule, we don’t tend to go to tourist attractions and especially not on ‘organised tours’ as such, although we are happy to make the exception for something unique and after a little research, these caves did sound pretty exceptional.
We had booked our slot on line for 2pm, so parked up (Car Park 4 @ 20 euros/24hr) and headed off into the caves with jumpers, jackets, raincoats and woolley hats despite it being 20ish degrees and sunny outside.
After collecting our audio guide we got on the train and were happy that we had brought the extra clothing….10 degrees and humid! The railway is the only double track railway of its kind, is the worlds first railway in a cave. and is 3.7km long, dating back to 1872
All I can say is Wow! – glad we did it but no, we don’t need to do another cave anytime soon. It was in Keith’s words, probably one of the most amazing things he has ever seen… and that includes seeing the wierd looking ‘Olms’, or in latin ‘Proteus Anguinus‘…. better known as baby dragons.
The ‘Olm’ is a pale pink, almost translucent creature with short legs with three digits on their forelimbs and two on their hind feet and they move around in the water by twisting their bodies, assisted by the legs. They breathe through gills and rudimentary lungs. They have no eyes but they can “see” everything with the help of skin receptors leading them to be very good at sensing their prey. The wierdest part though is that they can go without food for many years…very odd creatures….all in all quite a unique experience!
After a slightly cooler morning run/exercise routine and breakfast, leaving the caves behind us, we set off towards Lake Bled where we were hoping the rain would hold off long enough so that we could take in some of its beauty…. and we were luckier than we thought we would be.
As the weather forecast was looking pretty wet we opted to stay in Bled (Bled Stellplatz 25 euro p/n), rather than at one of the campsites and it worked well as not only was it perfectly located for us to get some shopping done, it is 1km from Lake Bled and not too far from the Vintgar Gorge.
After lunch, we headed towards the lake to stretch our legs and ended up walking all the way round, being captivated by the views at every clearing in the trees. The clouds were low, leaving the skies looking a little moody but Lake Bled was still the most incredible Turqouise colour… and better still, it was quiet.
The following morning was dry, so taking full advantage and after letting the rolls I had made cool enough to make the sandwiches, we headed off on a little walk to Vintgar Gorge.
Vintgar Gorge is carved out of the rocks by the Radovna River and is situated just inside the Triglav National Park, 5km from Bled. The Gorge itself is 250m high and 1.6km long and protected, restricting the number of people who access it and where you can walk.
The water was so clear and the colour was mesmerizing. The sound, despite being incredibly loud through the rapids, was relaxing.
At the end of the 1.6km path, we circled back up through the woods to eat our lunch before heading back down through Zasip, arriving back at the motorhome just before the weather broke…. perfect timing!
Having threatened to rain but not having arrived, it arrived in its abundance…although not so much of an issue overnight, just ensures that the rivers flow freely and helps keep the area looking beautiful and green.
The rain didn’t bother us too much this morning either as it was a planned ‘rest’ day, although we made it out for a reverse loop of the lake, which despite not being able to see the top of any of the surrounding mountains – or even hills today – still had a ‘special’ feel. There is no doubt that it is a very beautiful place and we consider ourselves lucky to have seen it whilst it has been so quiet.
We have been cooking alot – and even had the BBQ out twice last weekend as the weather was so good…. although I had to remember how to make pittas again as it has been a while!
We haven’t however been cooking many new recipes – its been curries, cobbles, stews, pies and more. The only new recipe that we have now added to our repertoire is a Rich and Creamy Lasagne which has a lovely combination of Squash, Aubergine and Porcini mushrooms amongst other deliciousness…. and yes, it is plant based but you wouldn’t know!
We came to Slovenia without any expectations and having done very little research, and from what we have seen so far, Slovenia is a very beautiful place and incredibly easy to travel in.
The people are friendly and although we have learnt a few words of Slovenian, thankfully most of them appear to speak reasonably good english.
We are just nine days in to our visit and from what those nine days have given…. we are excited about what there is to come. There is so much more to explore – including the food and wine but here is the map of where we have been so far.